Spelunking in the Rio Camuy Caves

We take risks not to escape Life... but to prevent Life from escaping us.

I came upon the Aventuras site while looking up what I was going to do in Puerto Rico. I dismissed at first, deeming the caving adventure too expensive, even though it was rated by National Geographic as one of its 500 of the World's Greatest Trips. However, after mulling it over for a few days and the encouragement of my roommate I changed my mind and booked their Caving adventure (they also do a Canyoning adventure).

The 5:45am pickup time is kick-you-in-your-groin jarring, it is brutal for being on holiday. The only ordinary part of the day you will encounter is the check-in with the guides for the day. Then before you know it a red carpet is rolled out, the Indiana Jones theme music blares, a faux megaphone beckons you to board the bus and we are off on this adventure. I don't know what the guides put in their coffee but they are inconceivably bubbly at this god-forsaken hour. Our guides at the pick-up were Rossano Boscarino (Lead Guide) and Anibal Reyes(Chauffer, Guide and Comedian). Both Rossano and Anibal make the drive to the caves unforgettable, Anibal provides an amazing array of noise-effects that compliment Rossano's jokes. The constant Indiana Jones references almost convinces you that you are embarking to the Temple Of Doom.

A local bakery, serves as the halfway point pit stop before we hit the entrance of the cave. Here we pick-up the sandwiches Rossano ordered for us from the bus and any additional water/drinks.

A discrete pathway off a rural road is the starting point of our adventure. Aventuras has a station setup, where you can leave your belongings, take showers and change. I was first off the bus and made my way to the backpack lockers, I almost laughed at what welcomed me at the locker - a snake. I thought it was one of the many gags that the guides had been playing on us since the bus. After seeking confirmation from Johnny (another guide who had joined), it indeed was real and fortunately non-poisonous. Suffice to say I made sure all the pockets in my back pack were zipped-up!

From here we were off to the get our training in repelling/zip-lining and climbing the via ferrata (Italian for "iron road") at the staging area that Aventuras has setup. The initial decent to the staging area also serves as a gauge for the physical abilities of each individual.

After we were equipped with the appropriate apparatus for zip-lining and repelling we were off (yours truly volunteering to go first). The thrill of zip-lining across a jungle sinkhole is like no other. The smells emanating from the jungle flora, the dew filled air being disturbed by your being and your iris' adjusting to decipher each of the many hues of green coming from the jungle floor and the canopy above is a sensory overload. There are four zip-lines on your way to the entrance of the caves. Each being as spectacular as the last. Next up was a repel down the cliff over-hang of the caves entrance, at this point you begin to soak up the humidity in the air around you.

Once at the entrance of the cave, the humidity is so abundant it makes photography almost impossible.

After the entire group had gathered we were off into the belly of the cave. Not even five minutes into the we were faced with our first jump - a relatively small ten foot drop into the river makes sure you are drenched for here onwards.

As we meandered through the caves, the occasional fruit bat would fly-by or the helmet flashlight would spot a scorpion, or the alien-like spiders. The roaches were the most wildly abundant, and I would not suggest this to the roach phobic! But, the beauty of the calcite deposits are all-around and could be easily missed in the damp, dark environment. The calcite deposits that form the stalagmite formation on the floor of the cave are so course, at one point we were able to scale a wall of calcite without using any ropes. At the decent of this same wall was the 'Lake of Nutella', as Rosanno described. At one point, the cave was flooded by a huge tropical downpour and once the water seeped through the porous rock it left behind the type of mud that has an appetite for all kinds of shoes. To overcome losing our shoes, we were instructed to run, run like hell. The scene that followed went something like this: imagine beams of light bouncing off walls, mud being kicked up in all directions- sometimes settling precariously closed to an open mouth that is sucking in every bit of the dense, heavy air. The inevitable happened, someone lost a shoe, albeit momentarily - he was one of the lucky ones - usually the shoes are never to be found.

After conquering the Lake of Nutella, everyone paused for a moment to catch their breath. Next up was the blind 20' jump, everyone shuts off their helmet lights and gets to experience this exhilarating jump. Next up was the sump that we were warned of earlier- indeed the sump was the reason why we set out on our caving adventure so early in the morning. Before we move on, a Sump is the passage in a cave that is submerged under water. This particular sump was navigable without oxygen tanks during the morning, prior to the downpours of the afternoon. Fortunately, we got there with about a foot of air between the roof of the sump and the water level.

After navigating these obstacles we stopped for lunch (sandwiches we had bought earlier at the bakery). The Aventuras team does a great job in setting this up- the location for lunch is in a huge opening in the cave, the acoustics are incredible and they are at the ready with some soothing music and lanterns that light-up the huge concert hall-like cavern. Padding is provided for both comfort and to keep us away from any Guano that may be present on the cave floor. After lunch, we were back were headed back stopping to marvel at some huge calcite formations and then there was the Lake of Nutella to be tackled. This time no shoes were lost.

We floated out of the cave the same way we entered and then it was onto conquer two more zip lines and the via ferrata. on the way back to Aventuras outpost to clean-up after the muddy and drenching excursion.

It is definitely one of my top ten moments of all my travels. It is exhilarating and the camaraderie that is fostered during a relatively short period of time is a testament to the effort the guides put into ensuring this.

Back in the outpost were replenished with some snacks and shared battle stories. And then, before we knew it, it was time to head back to San Juan.

Everyone was still in a buzz, adrenaline still running high. Eventually though, most people gave into the tiredness, the lack of sleep including myself and the bus quietened down. Some fell asleep, some listening to music in retrospect of what was achieved that day in the Puerto Rican jungle.

For anyone going to Puerto Rico, I highly advise doing this! It is truly a rewarding and unlike any other way to spend your vacation.

Contact AventurasPR at:

info@aventuraspr.com or their website at http://www.aventuraspr.com/

Besides Rossano and Anibal the Aventuras team consists of:

Johnny Rodríguez

Iván Cruz

Tiri Rodríguez

Jazmin Ruiz 

Huge Thanks to the entire team in making the Caving experience so unforgettable!

Puerto Rico > Oahu!

I love Red-Eye’s, not the eye ailment, but the flights that are known so ubiquitously. No matter how much other travelers despise them, I have an affinity for them. They allow me to work a full-day and yet be at my destination the following morning (within reason/distance of course) ready to explore. Now, this may sound foreign to those readers in Europe and elsewhere in the world. But, for us in the American workforce we know what a luxury each day of paid-time-off is.

 
My most recent red-eye took me to the shores of the Caribbean. Puerto Rico to be exact, known in Spanish as Isla Del Encanto (which translates into "the island of enchantment”). Having slept through the majority of the first and half of the second flight (I had to connect at EWR) I was feeling as refreshed as you can be after an eleven hour sojourn cross-country. Any sleepiness that lingered was quickly extinguished while landing. We actually experienced what they call a ‘hard landing’. I knew something had gone awry when I heard the engines rev back-up upon touch-down. So, after a failed landing we took to the skies once again and circled Luiz Munoz International Airport. 

After a successful second landing, grabbing my luggage and renting my car for the duration of my stay I found my out of the airport and headed towards the Condado area. I checked into my studio apartment that I had rented for a steal, considering the location, from Airbnb. I proceeded to walk the well-manicured, ocean and lagoon straddling main-drag of the Condado area of San Juan. Within steps of my apartment were many eateries, bars and luxury hotels with casinos and more restaurants. Famished, I went in search of some local fare. First up was a Medalla (local beer) and some Ropa Viejo (shredded flank steak in a tomato sauce base) Mofongo. Mofongo is a Puerto Rican staple made from mashed up fried green plantains. After satisfying my satiety, next up was a swim in the warm Caribbean waters that were lapping onto a small strip of beach adjacent to the Conrad Condado Hotel. It was by no means the best beach, but it sufficed and I was enjoying the tropical, salty breeze that almost had a lullaby affect. 

After sunset I headed back to the studio and rested, being that it was a Friday night I wanted to save some energy for the nightlife. 

Boriquans don't go out till late - with dinner also being a late affair. Even at 8 o'clock the restaurants were relatively quiet. I went to a Peruvian/Puerto Rican fusion restaurant (Puerto Peru) for dinner - my waiter a Dominican transplant and like many locals was friendly and even gave me a list of all the hot spots to check out. That night I tried mofongo again, this time the prawn variety, it went down well with the strong Mojitos that were being served at this very fine establishment. :) The streets slowly started to get busy, with many a local crowding the streets to what is the equivalent of the 'joy ride' or 'jerk ride' as it was explained to me by a very friendly taxi driver.

That night I ended up first in Old San Juan's Nuyorican Cafe, it's more dance club than a cafe. That night they had a live salsa band and many of the patrons were getting their salsa groove on. However, my highlight from the San Juan area that night was a hole-in-the-wall bar adjacent to Nuyorican Cafe. It was, from what I gathered, an all local crowd drinking rum concoctions and listening to Reggaeton. Randomly though, this bar actually had a ceremonial mask that can only be found in Sri Lanka. After a couple hours here and getting to know some locals I headed to Club Brava at the San Juan Hotel. After another Mojito and some people watching I was back heading towards Condado. It was close to 4:30am when I decided to call it quits. 

Saturday was Discovery of Puerto Rico day, unfortunately I slept-in till late. I did catch some festivities in Old San Juan late in the afternoon. It was a great day and the locals were enjoying the celebrations of their history. Old San Juan is also a great spot for all types of photogs and I was enjoying the various photo opportunities that presented itself, especially in the waning daylight. On the recommendation of some friends I went to Barrachina - the birthplace of the Original Piña Colada. Honestly, the Piña Colada wasn't my cup of tea (this was my very first). The pineapple and coconut cream mixture takes some getting used and after one of them I switched back to Mojitos. While I was waiting on my dinner, Bistec Fortelaza (Skirt Steak stuffed with ham, Swiss cheese, onions and peppers covered in mushroom sauce), I was chatting to an Australian couple who attested that the Piña Colada here was indeed the best in San Juan (at least by their standards). C'est la vie. Tonight, I headed back to the studio early. For tomorrow I'd be going on an adventure, an adventure that is rated Top 500 by National Geographic! 

Early in the morning, 5:45am we were off to the Rio Camuy Caves for some Caving/Spelunking. (More on that to come). The Caving adventure was probably one of my favorite excursions I've done in all my travels and I'd highly recommend it anyone that is visiting Puerto Rico. (www.aventuraspr.com)

I was so tired after the physicality and the lack of sleep from the previous night that I passed out for a few hours back at the studio. That night I was keen to go out, but I had another early morning planned with a snorkeling excursion the following morning. 

Monday morning, I was off to the coastal town of Fajardo - about an hours drive from San Juan. I had booked a snorkeling excursion with a local outfitter just south of Fajardo. Unfortunately, the swells were preventing us heading towards Culebra. I was keen on Culebra because its Flamenco Beach is highly recommended by travelers and locals alike. Instead, we were off to the uninhabited island of Icacos. As soon as we were given the all clear I was in the water. While the rest of the folks were still loitering on the boat!!! While the snorkeling didn't compare to the snorkeling I had done earlier this year in Thailand it still was amazing. In my opinion the higher salt content of the Caribbean makes it easier to snorkel for a long period of time. In fact, I had stayed out in the water the entire time we were in Icacos. Saw some really awesome marine life; including a trumpet fish that camouflaged itself amidst the sea weed and an extremely shy octopus that I happened upon for a brief second. There was a Blue Tang that followed me around the reefs off Icacos and another that kept me company on the reefs of Palamino later (our second stop). Most snorkeling outfitters provide lunch and unlimited rum punches and other beverages. 

My excursions for the day hadn't finished, next on the schedule was kayaking in the bio-luminescent bay (La Laguna Grande) north of Fajardo. There are two-trips that each outfitter plans for the night, one right after dusk and the well into the night. I headed out on the later excursion. None of the review could prepare me for this experience. You set out in pitch black conditions, the only thing to guide you are small LED lights on the guides kayak. The entrance to the larger lagoon is through a mile-long strip of water that is fenced in by mangroves. Before getting into the lagoon proper you could spot hints of the single-celled bioluminescent dinoflagellates as oar broke the serenity of the water. Some kayaking ability is required as there are many kayaking outfitters that lead tours into the lagoon and the opportunity for crashing with other kayakers is high. Once in the lagoon you can run your hand in the water, and it would seem your hand was 'on fire' underwater. This is one place you would hope for a brief tropical shower, imagine seeing the water light-up as each droplet disturbed the surface. The whole excursion takes about an hour and a half. The darker it is, especially moonless nights are the best to go out onto the lagoon.

My last full day in San Juan (and Puerto Rico) and I was hell-bent on making the most of it. I had to, had to, eat some BBQ-ed pork! After hearing so much about La Ruta del Lechon (the 'pork highway') from Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern I was sure it'd be on my to-do-list. However, there was a place right in San Juan that could rival the lechoneras of Cayey, Bebo's. So for lunch on Tuesday I was at Bebos, just before the locals got off for their lunch break. I ordered both the BBQ pork and some flavored rice. What was most impressive was that the pork wasn't doused with many a spice, but held up all on its own. All I can say is, you have to go to Bebo's when in San Juan. All BBQ pork should taste like that. To avoid a food coma I was off to old San Juan to catch the ferry over to the Bacardi Rum factory. The ferry is really cheap to Cataño, 50 cents one way. It also allows you a different view of San Juan, especially the huge cruise ships that come into the harbor to dock. The neighborhood around the Bacardi rum factory is dodgy - especially right outside the ferry dock. I enjoyed the tour of distillery and the two free drinks that comes with the tour. Although, I don't know if it's worth taking a taxi over to it ($35, one way). I'd only suggest it if you have extra time to spend in San Juan. I took the ferry back to Old town San Juan and spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening walking around the fort and the cobble-stone streets of the old town. 

That night, I wanted to try the up-scale restaurant at the Conrad Condado called Pikayo. It was pricey but the food was good - I had the jumbo prawns and pork belly sliders and many a mojito to wash it down. I finished the night off smoking a cigar and sipping some eight year old Bacardi rum at a open-air restaurant (Via Appia) facing the 'window to the sea' park. It was the perfect end to my Puerto Rican adventure - Rum, Cigar and Pork being the common thread that wove this trip together.

The next morning after checking out of my studio I was back heading towards Bebo's for a final BBQ pork and ribs combo before heading to the airport, across the street). The perfect send-off to an enchanting place. 

I know the title of this post is startling but in all honesty I had a blast in Puerto Rico. It still maintains its own culture - something I missed in Hawaii. I hope you all give Puerto Rico to enchant you. I know it certainly left a lasting impression on me.